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    June 08

    Unotips.org

    Do you like to play Uno? I do. Most people just think Uno is a game of chance, but I realized that was a myth when I found this site dedicated entirely to uno tips. In particular, I learned how to count cards in uno using the method of loci. It is awesome. I highly recommend this site.

    November 25

    Iguazu Falls, Day 1

    (Written by Mark)
     
    On Saturday we arrived at Puerto Iguazu, a tourist town organized around the main event of Igauzu Falls.  We arrived at the small airport with our driver Juan Pablo waiting.  He didn´t speak any English, so this was my first chance to ditch the crutch of the lost phrasebook and let my Rosetta Stone Spanish I skills shine.
     
    Juan Pablo gave us a quick tour of the town.  He drove a brand new Chevy.  Much to my surprise, Chevy´s are popular in Argentina.  As Javier had explained to us in Mendoza, they are inexpensive, reliable, and parts are easy to find in Argentina.  Who knew?  The town of Puerto Igauzu is small, but charming.  It has all the normal services a town could need, bank, post office, hotel, and lots of parrilla restaurants (Argentinian BBQs).   We went to a scenic vista at the edge of town, which was an intersection of rivers where you could see Brazil and the Ciudad del Este skyline in Paraguay.
     
    After the quick tour, we went to our hotel: Hotel Cabañas del Leñador.  The digs were nice.  We had our own Cabana, complete with honor system mini-bar.  The tropical forest grounds were nicely maintained.  The only downside was that the pool was not very clean.  It seemed it wasn't high season just yet and they did not put a priority on keeping it clean.  After Juan Pablo dropped us off, we setup an appointment to go to the Brazillian side of the falls.  We hear it's good to check out the Brazillian side first then do the Argentinian side the next day.
     
    Juan Pablo took us across to the Brazillian side.  There was one tense moment at the border crossing.  While waiting in the border line, I mentioned to Juan Pablo in my limited Spanish, ¨¿Es no problemo sin visa?¨  He gave us an ¨Oh Fuck!¨ look then told us let´s just proceed and see if they deny us.  I probably should have just not mentioned it and just see what the border official would do.  We knew from reading the guide book that they Brazil ¨unofficially¨ will let you through the border without a previously organized visa if they know you are just going to the falls for the day.
     
    The Brazil park was organized efficiently for straight-up, lazy tourism.  A bus takes you to the drop off point.  There's a short downhill walk to the falls, then a panoramic elevator ride back up to an area with gift shops and buffets.  As far as the falls, I had my doubts, but they delivered.  As Eleanor Roosevelt exclaimed upon seeing them, ¨Poor Niagra!¨ (thanks Wikipedia).  At the bottom of the falls, named Devil's Throat, you are awed at all of sheer force of all the crashing water. 
     
    We ate at a buffet with a great spread of food at the end.  The place was packed to the gills with mostly Brazillian Tourists.  I found the Brazillian tourists to be generally more rude than Argentinians.  They didn't have much respect for lines or personal space.  Even worse, the woman had zero respect for the unwritten spandex rule,¨It's a privilege, not a right.¨  There were way too many obese Brazillians just letting every muffin top, jelly roll, and pork fat piece of their bodies hang out of various shades of spandex.  We must have missed the spandex required memo.  After a Juan Pablo inspired stop off a huge bird zoo (Tucans, Flamingos, screaming parrots!), we headed back to our hotel and retired to the mini-bar and some television. (ed note: Around dusk, a cacophony of birds and wildlife outside our cabana reached a fevered pitch the likes of which we´d never heard before. It really was crazy - just screaming birds making the weirdest noises for about 20 minutes. And then a return to normal bird noises. I really would like to know which birds were responsible for the dusk time concert. It was amazing.) 
     

    Salta

    On Wednesday, we arrived in Salta, a northern town at the foothills of the Andes mountains. For the first time, we weren´t able to line up a hotel before we arrived. When we got to the bus station at 7am, we just went to the info booth and they hooked us up with a hotel. It ended up being a very bare bones hotel, but it did only cost us $40/night. When we arrived, I just wanted to sleep for a few hours (after getting very little sleep on the chilly bus). Unfortunately, our room was right off the lobby which was comprised largely of tile. So every guest checking in, every laugh in the attached cafe, every phone ring, every group waiting for their tour - we could hear them. I wanted to weep. Luckily, Mark had saved his ear plugs from the airplane flight and gave them to me - those things are a dream! I've never tried sleeping with ear plugs before - it´s a little slice of heaven, I tell ya. I´m a convert.
     
    After our nap, we booked a tour for the following day to see the surrounding areas, and then went to see the sites of Salta. We took a cable car to the top of the mountain and wandered around enjoying a full panoramic view of the city. Then, we went to see the famous churches and cathedrals. Finally, we went to the one and only museum we visited in all of Argentina (I know! We are not very cultural) - an exhibit of Incan archaeological items dug up at the top of a nearby mountain in 1999. This included the mummies of three children that were sacrificed to the gods but perfectly preserved by the conditions on the mountain. That night, we went to a pena - a dinner with live folk music. Very fun and yet more tasty steak.
     
    Thursday was an epic day - we were picked up at 7am by the tour company and did not get home until 8:30pm. We basically were carted around the entire Salta region. I'm running out of steam with this travel blogging so I´m going to try and encapsulate it succinctly. This page also does a good job of summing up all these sights, if you care.
     
    1. Train to the clouds - there used to be a train that went up through the mountains and this was it´s name. It only operates three days a week, so we just took the road that follows the same path as the train to the clouds. You also stop and see a railroad bridge and the very first train that went to said clouds.
     
    2. A cacti forest. A bevy of cacti.
     
    3. Llamas at various stops along the way.
     
    4. A small village where we bought a lot of very nice handicrafts made of llama wool.
     
    5. Quilmes ruins - we chewed coca leaves to fend off altitude sickness as we climbed to the top of a large hill to see the ruins. Coca leaves oddly taste like edamame.
     
    5. A small mining town, San Antonio de los Cobres which has 4 restaurants. We had lunch there - Mark ordered the llama. Tasted like chicken fried steak.
     
    6. We then road 90km on a dirt road. Incredibly bumpy and dusty. Luckily I slept most of the way, as I do in the car. Actually, I pretty much just napped all day long - dose off, wake up for the sightseeing, back in the van, sleep some more. We did A LOT of driving, so I got some major nap time in.
     
    7. The salt flats - probably the most amazing part of the day - completely flat land in the middle of a desert with pools of water that are used to get the salt out of the ground. Salt costs 20 pesos per ton, but you have to pay 1 peso to use their outhouse.
     
    8. We then drove a long windy road to the highest point in Argentina.
     
    9. Finished off the day in Purmamarca - another small village with an open market where we bought even more handicrafts and saw the mountain of 7 colors - a rock formation of many colors.
     
    And then a 2 hour drive home. Like I said, long day. But totally worth it - we took like 200 photos that day. It was a whirlwind tour of some of the most beautiful landscape I've ever seen.
     
    Salta sadly saw two casualties. Mark left his much loved phrase book (and crutch) at the restaurant in Salta Thursday night (he went back to try and get it Friday morning, but they were closed) and then he forgot his sunglasses on Friday morning at the airport cafe. At the end of a long trip, always carting around your shit, you start to get some brain fog.  
     
    Friday, we took a plane to Buenos Aires where we spent the night at a hostel that the Lonely Planet called "quiet". Ya, they were bumping Akon at 2 in the morning, but no prob, I had the earplugs. We had wanted to take a direct flight from Salta to Iguazu, but this was the only itinerary that we could find, so we spent an extra night in BA. Saturday morning, we took a flight to the northeastern tip of Argentina to see the Iguazu falls.

    Small Change

    (Written by Mark)
     
    Dear Argentina,
     
    Print some more money.  
     
    We learned shortly after arriving here that having exact change is a commodity.  The problem is that the ATMs only dole out 100 Peso notes (about $33 USD).  And yet, hand someone a 100 peso note and it´s like you just gave them their HIV positive test results.  We handed a 100 Peso note to a Locutorio clerk and her response was to throw her hands to the heavens and mutter ¨Dios Mio!¨ (Oh My God!).  The standard response is usually ¨Do you have anything smaller?,¨ to which we apologize and they empty out their till or call a manager over to give them more change. A few days into the trip we started organizing our purchases around where we could get change.  Normally restaurants don't complain if you bust out a $100.  A few days after that we started doing multiple ATM transactions to get smaller bills. 
     
    The culprit of all this?  Argentina doesn't have enough smaller bills or coins.  http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1859249,00.html  I can recall only having a $1 peso coin a handful of times on this trip, and much of the paper bills are crusty and old.  I hypothesized this problem early on to Beth much to her doubt.  I imagine I'd get similar responses in the United States if I tried to pay for a pack of gum at a convenience store with a $100.  But that never happens, since ATMs only give out $20s and our mints are staying on top of things.
     
     
    November 23

    Cordoba: The Colonial Rest Stop

    After the whirlwind of activities in Mendoza, we arrived in Cordoba on Sunday. Most of the city (2nd largest in Argentina) was shut down for the day of rest. We got in very early, at around 7am and went to the hotel and promptly napped. After a very long nap and a disappointing lunch, we wandered around the quiet town a little bit. Everything was pretty much closed except for the mall, so we went in there. The highlight of that was basically a big bowling alley and arcade on the very top floor. We didn't bowl or play video games. At this point, it became sort of clear to us that our motivation was sapped. We went back to the hotel where Mark napped for several more hours and I finished my book. And then we went out to dinner at 11 pm at night - like true Argentinians. Pizza and live music and a couple of beers and back to sleep.
     
    The rest of our stay in Cordoba was roughly similar. We just didn't get it together to do much of anything. All I remember about Monday is that we watched a lot of TV and ate at the country's largest all you can eat restaurant that night (complete with an indoor river and waterfalls). I think we just needed some down time and Cordoba was it. And unlike other cities, there didn't seem to be a lot of turismo offices around to encourage tours and activities.
     
    Finally, on Tuesday, we got it together to do a bit of sightseeing. Cordoba is, after all, full of beautiful Colonial architechture. We made up for lost time by basically walking the entire length of the city. Mark wanted to see the city universidad so we set out in the hottest part of the day, got lost in the middle of nowhere and finally got to the university only to discover it was a total shithole. I've seen more cheerful prisons. Mark was particularly pissed since he'd pushed so hard to go out of our way when I suggested that we just walk to the park. He kept muttering "zero pride in learning" under his breath. Finally, after completely exhausting ourselves, we had a chocolate sundae to negate any possible calories we may have managed to burn off. We have been eating like kings in this country, I tell you, and for prices so low it almost makes me feel guilty.
     
    So, ya, that was us in Cordoba - we just spent a lot of time eating and hanging out in the hotel room. I feel a little bad about it, but not THAT bad.
     
    That night, we left for Salta in the north of Argentina. We had been told that Chevallier was the best bus company, so we booked on their bus this time around. Disappointingly, it turned out to be the absolute worst. We spent the night shivering with no blankets and the only food they gave us was a ham sandwich. No breakfast or drinks or bingo games. Sheesh. Slummin' it.
    November 21

    Horsies

    From Mark:
     
    On Saturday, we went to ride horsies.  I've never ridden a horsie before, so Beth has requested I write about it so we get the first-timer perspective.  Giddy-up!
     
    Backstory on the use of the word horsie rather than horse.  Richard Pryor used it on one of his old comedy albums.  As he assesses his audience (paraphrasing here), he says:  "Where's all the white people at?  You guys still fucking?  I don't see any white people anymore.  You guys stopped fucking because some rich guy told you to (in white guy voice). 'Stop having babies!  I need lots of land so I can ride my horsie!'
     
    Javier picked us up at about 9:45.  It was an unusually chilly morning, in the 60s as opposed to the 80s that we've grown accustomed to.  I asked him if we should pack something warm, and he instructed us to "wear a thick shirt and bring a jacket."  So I grabbed my base layer and jacket and Beth grabbed her button-down shirt and her thin cotton jacket.
     
    The drive to the ranch took about an hour and a half.  We drove up into the mountains past some scenic vistas and to the country into an area where many of the richies have their holiday homes.  Beth fell asleep within ten minutes as she normally does while Javier and I chatted.  I'm convinced that Beth has a condition in which a moving car causes her to fall asleep.  There's got to be some long medical name for it.  It happens to her every time without fail.
     
    Once we arrived at the ranch, the riding commenced.  Anne and Matthew, a nice couple from England, were waiting and would also be riding. Renaldo, the Argentinian version of the Marlboro Man, was introduced as our riding guide.  Lucia, Javier's cousin and former Polo player, came out and instructed us how to ride the horse.  "You will be riding South American style.  Hold the reins with one hand.  Pull them right to go right, and left to go left, and back to stop.  Kick the horse with your heel to go."  There may have been more instruction than that but that was the gist of it. 
     
    Renaldo led the way and we headed out.  Beth said I had the "look of fear" in my eyes when the horse took off, but I don't remember it that way.  I think of it more of a "what is happening?" look. [editor's note - he had the look I imagine I had when we were riding that boat in Jamaica] We headed out of the tiny village and into the country side.  My horsie, a large white horse named Tamano, kicked into slow trot and followed along.  I soon found out that I really didn't have any control of the horsie.  He was so well trained he would just follow along.  Sure, I could steer him a little bit, but he already knew the route and didn't care what I wanted.  Nor did he care about going fast.  Matthew and I were perpetually in the rear while the ladies rode out front.  
     
    [end Mark's writing] Mark grew weary of writing this blog, so I will finish it off. We ended up riding for about 2 hours up into the mountains - it was beautiful but cold as FUCK. Literally, the last 15 minutes of the ride, I was just silently waiting for it to be over (and Mark confirmed that he was thinking the same). But the rest of the ride was lovely - Renaldo regaled us with information on the flora and fauna of the region. After the horse ride, we returned to the lodge and had lunch. Renaldo built a fire for us thankfully preventing frostbite from setting in and we enjoyed a lunch of steak, salad, bread and wine. (As an aside, no matter where we've gone in Argentina, the bread has been delicious and homemade. Every restaurant brings you a bread basket of at least 2-3 types of bread. Which probably means I've gained weight.) What is it about being coming in from the outdoors that makes a meal so delicious? The salad in particular, with fresh tomatoes and onion, was very simple, but tasted like heaven. And for dessert, we had simple canned peaches but somehow they were just perfect. We finished off the meal with coffee around the fire. It was a nice meal and it was fun talking to another pair of newlyweds (the Brits Mark mentioned earlier).
     
    After lunch, we went to a local brewery called Jerome (after the owner). We learned that there are very few microbreweries in Argentina, and Jerome is the only one that uses only Argentinian grown hops and barley. The owner himself gave us a tour - I use the word tour loosely. It was just Mark and I along with Javier and Jerome talking about beers of the Pacific Northwest, home brewing, Jerome's brewing process, some new experimenting he's doing, etc. Afterwards, we finished off the day in Jerome's pub with a few of his beers. They were quite good. Apparently, he does have some contracts with places in Seattle, so we'll have to try it again sometime.
     
    I slept some more on the ride home and then we said a sad goodbye to Javier and Mendoza. That night, we rode the bus to Cordoba and had the pleasure of going first class in the Royal Suite. It was wonderful! Our seats became completely horizontal, they served us a very good meal of roast chicken and potatoes, we drank champagne.  We kept paraphrasing that song GLAMOROUS - "riding first class up in this bus, drinking champagne..."
    November 18

    Wine Time

    Through a coworker of Mark´s, we´d heard about a private driver in Mendoza who could help us organize a trip to the wineries. That guy was busy, but he recommended a different driver to us - Javier. Javier picked us up at our hotel on Friday morning to take us on a few winery tours. Meeting Javier turned out to be one of the nicest parts of our trip so far. He had spent 5 months in England (and then subsequently several months travelling Europe) so his English was quite good. Over the next two days, we talked about everything: questions we had about Argentina, his experiences at crazy futbol matches, racial profiling, Amsterdam, Argentinian weddings (dancing til dawn! We don´t even know the meaning of A game!), and so on. It felt like when you visit a friend in another city and they show you around instead of just a generic tour.
     
    On that first day, we started out at a small boutique winery. This winery made it a point to use 3 vines worth of grapes for one bottle of wine to get the best concentration (most wineries do 1 vine = 1 bottle). The guide was very knowledgeable and offered up a lot of information I´d never heard about wine making before (although he failed to note that grapes come from another planet like that winery we went to in Eastern Washington). We had to pay a tasting fee at this winery - 60 pesos. However, if we paid just 29 pesos more, we could get a bottle of their Malbec. I had already had a look at their wine price list, so I knew that the Malbec was their budget wine while all of the other wines we tasted were exhorbitantly priced (although Mark thought the prices were by the case while I said they were by the bottle), so it made sense that we could get the Malbec for a few pesos more. Mark, however, did not apparently get that bit about the "Malbec" - I wandered off for awhile while he went to pay the tasting fee, and he thought the extra pesos were for ANY bottle of wine and requested the one that we´d liked best at the tasting. So I saunter back over to the counter and the dude is wrapping up the bottle super carefully, it takes like 5 minutes, he puts it in a fancy box and everything and I´m like wow, they´re really taking care with this cheap Malbec. So then I hear him say "here´s the bottle of Altamira, that´ll be 426 pesos" and we just gave each other big eyed stares and Mark forked over the credit card. For those of you not in the know about the exchange rate, Mark accidentally purchased a $140 bottle of wine. HOLY SHIT. On the upside, they waved the $20 tasting fee, ha ha! So between getting naked at the spa the day before and accidentally buying the world´s most expensive bottle of wine, Mark was all like, "well, what can I say, I do one stupid thing every day!" We decided to spin it all as a very special purchase to drink on our first wedding anniversary.
     
    After that, we went to a larger winery where we enjoyed a 5 course meal al fresco while overlooking the winery. Each course was paired with a bottle of wine, so by the end, I was sort of hazy. The meal was quite good as was all the wine. We finished off the day with a stop at a very small old winery - nothing fancy, just a very charming man making good wine for several years. He gave us the tour himself and was very warm. It was the perfect mix of the different types of wineries you can find in Mendoza and a wonderful day. Naturally, we finished it all up with a nap.
     
    Next time: We were looking for something to do the next day and Javier suggested that his cousin did horseback riding tours. Mark had never been on a horse, so we decided to give it a shot...
     
    November 15

    baths

    I can,t really figure out how to use the apostrophe on these Argentinian keyboards. On some, it works, and on others, it doesn,t. So I,ve decided to substitute a comma.
     
    The last several days have been the nicest of the trip so far.
     
    On Thursday, we went to a hotel up in the mountains that has thermal baths. It was about an hour out of Mendoza and the ride up through the desert mountain landscape reminded me a lot of California but with bluer skies. Surprisingly, we were the only English speakers on our tour. This ended up being kind of nice in its own way - we were in a little bubble of just the two of us that day. We were at the spa from 11am until 5:45pm so we had a good long time to enjoy our little relaxation bubble.
     
    When we arrived, we opted to sign up for a half hour massage each. Mark had never had a massage before and they were ridiculously cheap, so it was a no brainer. We were then shown to the baths. The baths (filled with thermal water of varying temperatures) were set right on the river,s edge. The river cut it,s way through a few high cliffs - it was a beautiful scene. We spent the morning lounging in the baths, covering ourselves in mud and then drying out in the solarium, and generally just relaxing about while the smell of lunch,s barbequed meat began to fill the air. When the time came for lunch, we went to the restaurant and were confronted with a buffet the likes of which I have never seen. It was huge and comprised of a variety of vegetables prepared in many ways, several lettuce types, various salad toppings, a soup, potatoes prepared 3 ways, other sides, and then a mountain of meat of different cuts and varieties. I was literally unsure where to begin. We leisurely made our way through mounds of food and then took some time to digest before our massages.
     
    Before the massage, I told Mark that he may or may not need to take off all his clothes.  Usually at home you do take it all off, but who knows what the protocol was here. My masseuse told me, in English, to take off my top only, so I assumed Mark,s masseuse would tell him likewise. I learned afterwards that she only spoke Spanish so he got fully naked and then the woman came back in and was like No and left again so he could put his pants back on. I got quite a laugh out of that story.
     
    The rest of the day, we spent in the baths, sleeping by the pool and in the underground cave-like sauna. If you{re ever in Mendoza, you need to go to this place. It was heavenly. It reminded me of those old tyme novels where people with mysterious ailments spend months at a place taking in the healing waters.
     
    November 12

    TEEP

    Last night, we had our first experience with one of Argentina´s luxury buses. We took an overnight trip from Buenos Aires to Mendoza. We ended up travelling ¨cama¨class which is not the premier class, but just 2nd to that. We booked at the last minute, so we had to "settle." We arrived on the double decker bus and took our seats - they reclined 160 degrees and were cushy leather. Much nicer than a plane - even from what I´ve glimpsed of first class on a plane. The ride started out with a friendly round of bingo where I very quickly translated my knowledge of French numbers to learn Spanish numbers. I was the lucky winner and my prize was a bottle of wine! A round of applause all around for Elisabeth in Seat 14!! From there, a DVD of about an hour´s worth of music videos all featuring the exact same easy listening drum beat cycled while we were served a large dinner. After dinner, a movie was played (A Perfect Storm - kind of a dumb movie, I tuned in and out, didn´t even need the sound to understand it). Once the movie was over, lights out and time for sleeping. I slept through the night - a little restlessly, but sleep nonetheless which is shocking since I can rarely sleep on a plane. I totally woke up with swollen ankles though because of the weird incline the foot rest puts your feet at. After being served breakfast, we arrived in Mendoza! We promptly booked our next bus trip for later in the week - this time in Premier class - also known as Royal Suite - where we shall experience a full recline!
     
    Today we ate a lunch of homemade pasta and then explored Mendoza by walking what felt like the entire length of it. Tomorrow, we´re off to a thermal spa for the day and Friday, a tour of local winderies.
     
    Our last night in Buenos Aires, we had a very fancy meal at Bar Uriarte. It was WONDERFUL. We started with ricotta and risotto croquettes and a spinach salad with croutons, almonds, warm egg, thick bits of pancetta and a dijon and truffle oil dressing. It was maybe the best salad I´ve ever eaten in my life. I could eat that salad every day. For my main, I had a pork loin cooked with ginger and lemon in a brick oven. The meat just fell off the bone. It was an amazing meal. I wish they had their cocktail menu online as well because I had a cocktail there that I would like to drink every day before I eat that salad every day. I´m not entirely sure what was in it, I´m missing one ingredient but it did have strawberry juice, vodka and just a hint of tabasco. Towards the end of the night, I was rather tipsy and playing with my (titanium, not the ROCK) wedding ring and spinning it around on the table. DUH. It went flying away from the table and we had to enlist the staff with a huge flashlight and get all CSI to find it. Luckily, it was towards closing so no one else was in our section to be interrupted by the floor combing. After several anxious minutes, the ring was found and the evening ended well!
     
    We also went to a futbol game that I enjoyed far more than I expected. We arrived an hour and a half early and sat roasting in the sun watching an usher who looked like Rodney Dangerfield harass tourists for "teep, teep, teep" every time he ushered them to their seat. Oh, everyone tipped him, locals included, but they just gave him a few coins and he moved along. He expected more from the tourists and would let them know. We were with a tour guide, so we didn´t deal with him, but we did notice Rodney yelling at our tour guide about (we assume) how he doesn´t get any teeps from the lousy tours!
     
    In other news, we have seen two children urinate in public in as many days. And, sadly, if people in Buenos Aires love their dogs, then people in Mendoza abandon theirs. We have seen far too many stray dogs in our one day here. They all look like good dogs too. Sad, sad stray dogs!
     
    November 09

    Random Assortment of Observations

    1. I love a country that loves dogs. It´s obvious that Argentinians love dogs - they´re everywhere in all shapes and sizes. You´ll often see dog walkers walking 12 or 15 dogs at a time which is impressive. The only downside is, of course, the dog turds everywhere. Actually, when we arrived on Wednesday there were far fewer turds everywhere so I´m wondering if they street sweep at the beginning of the week or something. That´d be awesome. Anyway, it´s nice to see all the pups.
     
    2. Argentina is for lovers - PDA everywhere! I´m starting to feel self-concious for NOT riding Mark´s jock in public. Here we are on honeymoon and everyone else is making out on street corners and in back booths at bars. I guess we should pay heed to the expression "When in Rome..." (or in this case Buenos Aires) and start lip locking all over the joint.
     
    3. Argentina vote Obama way. Everyone who speaks to us in English asks us if we were for Obama. And when we say yes, nods of approval all around. Our waiter told us last night "All Argentina for Obama¨ It´s nice. I feel kind of sad about missing out on the election, but it´s interesting to learn just how much the rest of the world was paying attention and that they were as pleased with the outcome as us. On the plane over, the pilot came on and said "I have some news - America´s new president is Barack Obama" and then the plane exploded in applause and I broke into tears. A few hours earlier, Mark had managed to tune his MP3 player into a radio station out of Jamaica, so we´d heard the early favorable returns, but it was still a huge moment to get the official word. I still choke up every time I think about Obama winning.
     
    4. I always look forward to trying the various beverages available in other countries, but Argentina has made this challenging since Coke Zero (Cero) is PERVASIVE. My beloved Coke Zero is available everywhere Coke and Diet Coke are available. I can only dream of the sweet elixir being so widely available at home. An interesting side note - at the Boca Football stadium, all the coke branding is in black and white instead of the traditional red and white - this because the Rivera team, Boca´s enemy team, has the colors red and white and no way are they advertising those colors at their stadium regardless of Coke´s global brand initiatives.  In addition to Coke Zero, we´ve been enjoying a lot of aqua con gas. For some reason, the sparkly water here is very refreshing.
     
    5. BA has been nice, but we´re sort of ready to move on. Hopefully we´re off to Mendoza tomorrow (Mark is working on booking the bus as we speak - easier said than done. It seems that perhaps it would have behooved us to do a bit more advance planning/booking prior to the trip).
    November 07

    WWDD*

    *What Would (el)Derlies Do? 
    So far, our trip has been very laid back in pace. In fact, we are practically elderlies. For example:
     
    1. We nap everyday. Naturally, this nap is preceded by us splitting a liter of beer, which may or may not be popular with the senior crowd but is certainly popular with us. Being in a country that makes mid-day naps official is very nice. We arent lazy, we are just taking a siesta!
     
    2. We have persistent medical ailments. Ok, not "we", but I do. Walking around in high heels for Halloween for like 3 days and then sitting on a plane for 16 hours aggravated my bursitis. For the first 36 hours we were here, my hip was in major pain and I was bitching like a contestant in a bitching contest. I was afraid the whole trip might be ruined (like, seriously, international travel is all about the WALKING) and that I might have the unique experience of seeking medical attention in a foreign country. Thankfully, after copious amounts of anti-inflammatories (see also: naps), my hip is back to normal. Well, the first hour this morning it was still a little stiff, but it hasnt troubled me at all today.
     
    3. We take guided bus tours. I dont think Ive ever taken a city bus tour before - it always seemed like something old people do. I was surprised when Mark suggested it but agreed due to the aforementioned leg pain. And for sure we were the youngest on the bus, but it did allow us to cover a lot of ground. The best part was stopping in colorful La Boca where I purchased a handmade leather belt (orange!) for 15 dollars. Nice. The tour company also tried to upsell us on a photo of us photoshopped onto two tango partners, but, like any self-respecting elderly person, we declined on the basis of outrageous cost. I suggested we take a photo of the photo (it was a surprisingly flattering capture of us) but Mark called that "low." I guess I am an even bigger cheapskate with each passing year.
     
    Other than that, we have enjoyed copious amounts of dulche de leche, taken a tango lesson, eaten fabulous pizza and watched tv in our awesomely located apartment. And, of course, a staple of all trips in my experience, we have wandered around desperately hungry searching for food - the surest way to bicker with loved ones whilst travelling.
     
    And a shout out to Mark - his Spanish is really good! I have been impressed at his comprehension.
    May 27

    Adieu

    I think it may be time to officially retire the blog. It's no secret that I haven't been updating with the same enthusiasm or regularity as in the past. I think its time has passed. This blog has been mostly of the "what I did this weekend" or "talking about myself" variety. I never strongly believed that anyone cared what I did last weekend, it was mostly just nice to have a historical record. Like, oh, remember when I saw Flavor of Love for the first time?! I was totally appalled and yet loving it. Wow! I also may have exhausted my supply of clever anecdotes - at least the ones I'm prepared to discuss publicly. So, you know, all that's left are sad little Internet links that I could easily just email to the 5 people who read this blog. MSN Spaces, I think this is good-bye. Thanks for the memories.
    May 22

    Dispatches

    Is it wrong that I'm enjoying Slate's coverage of the R. Kelly trial so much?
    May 12

    Recreate

    Today is all about recreating childhood. First, Chloe sent me a page with childhood photo reenactments.

    And then I randomly came across a site where some Japanese people re-enact their childhood drawings. Wow.
    May 02

    Accent

    I just took two “regional dialect” quizzes and got different yet wrong results from both.

    With this one, I’m apparently from the Inland North:

    You may think you speak "Standard English straight out of the dictionary" but when you step away from the Great Lakes you get asked annoying questions like "Are you from Wisconsin?" or "Are you from Chicago?" Chances are you call carbonated drinks "pop."

    With this one, I scored a 65% Dixie (from the South).

    I find this incredibly odd since I’ve never been anywhere near the Great Lakes or the South. And my parents were born and raised in Southern California. Maybe I should try again and try saying stuff out loud. That might help for a more accurate reading?

    April 29

    Keeping Up

    Reading is a big part of my daily routine, especially now that I take the bus to work. I’ve always read every night before bed and now that has expanded to commute time – about 20 mins each way. Unless I’m really tired, I’ll read at least a half hour before bed and usually more like an hour. If the book is really good, I end up totally screwing myself by staying up super late to read it.

    The thing with all this reading is that I have to have a steady stream of books at the ready. Most of my reading material comes from the library (the only time I really ever buy books is if I’m in an airport and need something to read or if this month’s book club book has too long a hold list at the library), so it’s a delicate balance to have the right number of books on hand. I am always adding books to my “hold” queue and waiting for them to come up which means that sometimes it can be feast or famine. Too many books coming up at once or all of my choices stalled with a long hold time (“you are 246 out of 354”). That said, I am in love with the Seattle Library system. You can basically use their online reservation system to put any number of books on hold. I never actually even go to the library to peruse/find books – even if a book doesn’t have a waitlist, I still put it on hold so it’s pulled and ready to go when I get there. I just read on someone’s blog that Chicago only recently got an online reservations system and you can only do 5 holds at a time. And I remember in San Diego, you had to pay a dollar for each book you wanted to put on hold. The Seattle system is therefore very awesome. Just another reason why Seattle and I were meant to be together.

    Aside from the practical matter of having books available via the library, I also have to come up with books I want to read. I have a few methods:

    1. Amazon.com – I probably find most of the books I want to read on Amazon. They’re good about having Top 100 lists, but I also search on books I’ve already read and liked and use their “Customers who bought this also bought” feature to get ideas. I’ll also occasionally look at the user created lists.
    2. Blogs – I regularly read about 20 personal blogs and occasionally end up with recommendations from these. I also sometimes check a book specific blog for chick lit and YA books.
    3. Bookstore – If I find myself at a bookstore, I’ll peruse the books they have laid out on the tables and write down the names of any that sound interesting and then request them from the library.
    4. General media – These are the books that you just end up hearing about somewhere because they’re getting a lot of buzz or are cited in an article.

    Still, there are times when the book comes up off hold and I have no idea why I requested this book or where I heard about it. I’ll have forgotten completely. Recently, I read Waiting for Birdy, a book that I really loved, and yet I have no idea where I heard about it. Too bad because I’d like to go back to that source for more ideas!  

    I used to make myself read every book I started. Somewhere along the way, I totally dropped this rule. Sometimes I just start a book and don’t like it. Other times I’ll read a few chapters and get bored. In some rare cases, I’ll just not feel like reading the book even though I can tell it’s probably good and I’ll like it. It’s just not something I’m in the mood for at that time. That happened to me recently with Sacred Games – this looks like a really good book with an unusual premise and I just can’t seem to bring myself to start it. Anyway, I love the freedom of choosing not to finish a book. After years of school reading, it’s nice to know that I’m under no obligation to read a given book.  

    I’m writing about this because right now I have no books to read. Whenever I don’t have a book to read, I feel off kilter. My daily routine is kind of messed up – I read the NY Times on my phone on the bus; I just go straight to bed. I feel at a bit of a loss in all those moments when I’d usually pick up a book. Here’s to hoping one of my books comes up off hold soon. If not, I’ll have to start finding some books that aren’t too popular so they’ll be immediately available at the library.


    April 17

    Let's Welcome...

    So let’s talk about those introductory emails that go around when a new person joins your company. My former company was lax on getting these out, but my current company does it for everyone – including photo. The intro mail is such a contrived construct. No one wants to write these. You can feel the person who wrote it cringing as you read it. But it’s not their fault – there’s really no way to make these things any less hokey than they are. I mean, honestly, what do you really want to say about yourself to a whole slew of people you’ve never met and will be required to interact with professionally? It always ends up following a very similar template.

    Introduction:
    First, one begins with a jolly comment about how excited they are to be joining the team! As most people are transplants to Seattle, the writer then transitions into a discussion of where they are from. This is accompanied by a jesting comment about either a) the Seattle weather and their opinion of it, b) their undying love for their hometown sports team (go, Bears!) with a teasing dig about the local sports team (sorry, Seahawks fans!) or c) a deprecating comment about their hometown (I definitely don’t miss the smog!). From there, they may or may not choose to mention the college they attended and their major at said institution.

    A Brief History:
    Next up, we get a condensed version of their resume with commentary about how this past experience is going to translate into awesomeness at the new company. In this section it is important to remain upbeat about your chosen career trajectory and offer up some vague indication that you like what you do (“One of the things I love about the Internet industry is the ever-changing landscape”). If the person is a technical type, they will throw in what actually feels like sincere commentary about the computer languages (or whatever) they like with an inscrutable geek joke tossed in for those in the know.  

    Completely Impersonal Personal Background:
    Here, the writer takes a turn for the light hearted to let the reader know that they are not all work and no play. A list of socially acceptable hobbies is usually rattled off and punctuated with parenthetical humorous comments – “I enjoy dancing (you should seem my running man!), fishing and soccer.” If the writer is a parent, the hobby list is preceded by a recounting of their children’s names and ages. The hobby list is then either nonexistent or included with the caveat that they used to pursue these hobbies when they had the time (ha ha)!  

    Conclusion:
    An invitation to stop by and say hi is extended (with the tacit understanding that no one will ever take you up on the offer). Excitement is reiterated.  

    And then, the photo. It’s hard to choose these photos. You have to find an at least minimally flattering photo and really, no matter how flattering the photo, who wants a photo circulated to people before a real life meeting? Only the most photogenic (or least vain), I imagine. Most people choose a photo that’s a little far away and only provides a general frame of reference as to what they look like.

    When I’ve had to write these mails myself, I’ve found it excruciating. As an extra treat, below is the actual bio I wrote for my intro email at my current company. I tried to get as close as possible to writing nothing. The photo will not be included to protect the innocent (and unphotogenic) (also, vain).  

    <gag>

    I got my start in the Internet business straight out of college working as an editor for a search engine in San Francisco. This was back when it seemed like a good idea to have people manually find sites and build a search directory. It's amazing to me how far we've come in the Internet business, and that's what I love about working in it - the constant evolution. After taking a break to teach English in Japan, I moved to Seattle and went to work at X Company. In the 4 years I spent there, I learned a lot about ecommerce and how a successful Internet business works. I'm excited to continue my learning at X Company and look forward to being a part of the team. Outside of work, I enjoy singing karaoke (poorly), knitting, looking for my future dog on Petfinder and watching movies that are so bad they're good. Please stop by and introduce yourself!

    </gag>

    Anyway, I'm fascinated by these mails and always make sure to read them. There’s just something about the inevitable cheesiness of them that tickles me. Except if I have to write one. Then it is not at all amusing.

    April 16

    A Sad State of Affairs

    Last night, Hobo was a naughty boy. Around 10:30, I let him out for his usual nightly pee. We stood out in the cold for minutes on end because instead of peeing he was listening intently to every flick of a nearby crackhead’s lighter. Or so I thought. After we went inside and upstairs, I found a big ole spot of pee on the bedroom floor. So, ok, he wasn’t distracted by the sounds of the ‘hood, he just no longer needed to go cos he already took care of it, thanks anyway. Sigh. Not a lot you can do about the indoor pee except clean it up and question the universe for the hundredth time about why it had to be the carpet and not the floor. This is, I think, the fourth time he has peed in the house in the last month (he never did before) and after ruling out a bladder infection with the vet (an occasion which required me to “catch” his pee in a Tupperware container and then drive it to the Dr.’s office), we assumed that maybe we just need to let him out more often.

    BUT. After the clean up of the carpet, I got ready for bed and climbed in reveling in the warm covers and ready to crack open my bedtime read only to discover a HUGE wet spot on the bed. At that point, I had to conclude that this house pissing is a behavioral problem. Given that our bed is his bed and dog’s hate to piss in their “dens” and are naturally programmed not to, he wouldn’t do it just cos he needed to go – he did it to make a point. I suspect that point is “you must pay attention to me and more particularly you should play ball with me all the time.” 

    The Great Discovery of Bed Piss sent shockwaves through our home. Mark was called in to observe the flagrant transgression. First things first, we had to figure out how to address the cleaning up of this blight. Once this immediate concern was taken care of, attention naturally turned to the culprit. All dog training guidance will tell you that you can’t punish a dog after the fact because they’ll have no idea what you’re punishing them about. This is frustrating as a dog owner and also, I suspect, totally impossible. Has anyone in the history of pet owners ever just ignored a pet transgression just because of this very practical advice? I don’t think so. As a human, you feel compelled to “deal with it” in some way and not just walk away. In our case, this usually results in “conversation” with the dog that really does nothing to punish or enlighten the situation for him but certainly makes us feel better for having expressed it. There were definitely some stern words happening while the dog skulked in the corner of the room. He seemed to know that he had GONE TOO FAR or at the very least that we were displeased with him for some reason.

    This incident, though, was beyond the pale and we were whipped into a frenzy. There was the alarmist discussion about the recently Googled Internet research (I think you can guess who was doing this research) concluding that a dog should never be allowed on the human bed in the first place because it gives them dominance issues. There were beleaguered pleas to the dog about why he would do such a thing. Talk of how he was spoiled and how we should not treat him like a baby (again, you can guess who this was coming from). There was the suggestion that the dog be forced to sleep in his own bed that night. This idea was absurd unless we wanted to stay up all night enforcing this new idea, but somehow it stuck. The dog has never been made to sleep in his bed and to date it has functioned as a pricey toy box, so the task of getting the dog to suddenly go to his bed is a training effort, not just something that he would miraculously do. That said, he was made to go into his bed where Mark watched over him for a few minutes to make sure he stayed in it. After that, Hobo seemed to know that he was supposed to stay there because he did lay in it looking all schlumpy and sad.

    When I turned off the light, and he wasn’t there to cuddle, I felt totally heartbroken. I felt sad that he had to lie in his bed and he probably didn’t understand why and I was being punished too because I love our bedtime snuggle. But I also felt angry that he’d peed on the bed and I also felt frustrated and anxious and clueless about how to fix this new ‘problem’ of his in the days ahead. It was very similar to getting into a fight with your spouse. You’re sad that you have to be angry when you just want to have things be happy and la la and normal. Then you feel resentful that they acted out forcing you to feel all guilty and sad. And then you have that sinking depressing feeling that this problem will never go away and you can’t fix it and it goes without saying that it suddenly seems like this problem is the only thing in the whole world and you forget all the other good stuff for a minute. Of course, 20 minutes after I fell asleep he jumped on the bed and promptly laid against my legs. It was a bittersweet reunion – I was glad he was back but I was still not over it. I couldn’t bring myself to wake up and kick him off, though.

    The next morning, I woke up with that same fragile feeling you do after a fight with your spouse. I felt a little remorseful for having been so hard on Hobo in my mind. I felt surprised that I could forget all of his good qualities in the heat of the moment because in the light of the morning I couldn’t help but remember all the good things about him. But my anger and sense of betrayal were still a little raw and he was still a little tentative after getting in trouble, so we were careful with each other. There were a couple of pets, a kind word or two, but not quite the usual exuberant sing-songy morning routine. Like, ya, I’m not mad any more, but I don’t want you to get the idea that this whole thing is over. We’ll still need to address it down the line, buster.

    This whole incident stirred up a real gamut of emotions, I tell ya. And we’re still not sure what to do to fix it. There was some talk of training him to go to his bed and only get on our bed when invited (though this really has nothing to do with him peeing on the bed – dogs will pee on your bed if they’re mad at you even if they are normally never allowed on the bed). Consideration also turned to his ball obsession – if we weaned him from the need to play ball all the time, maybe he wouldn’t pee on the bed as payback when we didn’t play enough. Ultimately, no conclusions were reached. Just like spousal disagreements, it will likely be forgotten until the next time it comes up. 

    April 15

    New Food

    I’m always surprised when I end up liking a food that I used to dislike. I’ve always thought plain yogurt eaten straight was no good (fine for raita and the like, though!). On a whim, though, I bought some plain yogurt at Trader Joe’s because I also found a blackberry fruit sauce there and I thought they would be good together. Once I got home, I realized that the fruit sauce was in fact jam. Huh. Not very good for mixing. So now I had this huge tub of plain yogurt and I didn’t want it to go to waste. I decided to try it with a little honey. And, dude, that stuff is good! I always thought that plain yogurt was sort of too tart and flavorless but that’s because I was expecting it to be like fruit yogurt. Once I stopped thinking of them as being in the same family, my opinion changed. The tartness contrasting with the occasional bits of honey that didn’t get stirred in all the way is delightful. It’s my new favorite thing to eat. Sometimes I add frozen berries and that’s really good, too. A little honey and a change of perspective = plain yogurt convert! What next? Books about native cultures?

    April 14

    Strain

    So, I pulled a muscle in my neck last night and it still hurts. You might ask how I pulled this muscle. Was it through some tough athletic activity? Did I get whiplash from riding a motorcycle? Somersaults in the park? Um, no. I had 2 beers and greasy bar food for dinner and about 4 hours of fun and 1 hour of nausea later I threw up violently - pulling a neck muscle in the process. 2 beers! Sprained neck! This is SO part of getting old.